BALUSTRADE INSTALLATION STEP BALUSTER INSTALLATIONNEWEL POST ASSEMBLY Although epoxy can be used instead of mortar, for professional look we strongly advise using mortar to secure newel post bases, elevating pads, top/bottom railings and balusters. After marking everything, first step is to secure newel post bases and elevating pads for the bottom railing. Make sure elevating pads are centered with post bases, because railings slide into the grove of the posts. Use 3 elevating pads for each 82" section of bottom rail; make sure there's one pad in the middle if/where railings join. (No elevating pads for steps)
Allow about 1/4" gap between each end of the railing and posts, to be filled with mortar. Newel post base also serves as the elevating pad for the bottom railing.
Pre mark the squares for the balusters on top of the bottom railing with pencil. Secure either a level, straight stick or steel beam between posts as a guide for the top of balusters. Pre drill holes if necessary, place a scoop of mortar (or epoxy for economic installations) on the bottom railing where balusters will go, install balusters, filling in gaps, level them and let them set. Depending on temperature, after about 40 minutes is the best time to cut excess mortar/clean with a trowel. If you forget to do that, the next day you will have to grind it!
After you have the right fit of the top railing, place mortar on top of the balusters using trowel, and place the rail on top of the balusters with mortar. Repeat steps for filling gaps and cleaning as above
NEWEL POST ASSEMBLY Newel Post assembles from 6 parts: the hollow base, which is installed at the very beginning, 4 sides (2 thick, 2 thin) and a cap which is placed at the very end of installation, after top railing is already mounted on the balusters. If lights are to be used on top of the posts, be sure to wire electricity/conduit pipes before filling the posts. You can also request the caps to be prefabricated with holes in the middle for columns on top of our newel posts
STEP 1: Secure the hollow base and let it set.
STEP 2: Slide the 4 sides into the base, use shims if needed to level it, strap or clamp it, fill it to the top with concrete and let it set.
IMPORTANT! Be sure to fill post with concrete all the way to the top, because other way, the moisture can get inside, expand and crack the post!
STEP BALUSTER INSTALLATION Although some companies suggest installing step balusters without the bottom rail, (due to easier installation), we believe it is better with bottom railing and is well worth a little extra effort: By using bottom railing, step balusters are not constrained to being placed only one or two per step, but are completely independent from the width of the steps, thus matching the spacing and the height of the rest of balustrade for a professional look.
IMPORTANT: Be sure that the newel posts at the bottom of the steps are not right up against the steps, but the same distance away as the width of the steps, because other way the railing will not meet the post at the right height. (Or raise it to the step level)
STEP 1: It is ideal if a curb is poured with the steps, so that the bottom rail can be placed directly onto it
STEP 2: Lay bottom railing directly on mortar, without elevating pads, pre-cut the bottom of the step balusters, drill holes in the bottom railing and follow standard installation instructions.
HOW TO ANCHOR OUR RAILINGS INTO A THIRD PARTY POST/PIER STEP 1. Drill 2 holes into your existing post, at the height just underneath the railing. STEP 2. Ad mortar as you would with standard installation. STEP 3. Insert a piece of Steel rod about 4” into the post and 4” resting on the top of the baluster on each side as shown. STEP 4. Place the rail on top of the balusters
(Same procedure for the bottom rail, except the rebar will be resting on top of elevating pad instead of baluster.)